Comuna 13 was once known as one of the most dangerous neighborhoods in Medellín, which some considered the most violent city in the world during the time of Pablo Escobar and the Medellín Cartel. Despite what many may still believe, a place once overrun with violence and terror has now become a symbol of innovation and hope.
Comuna 13
Comuna 13 has dramatically changed in recent years largely due to inspiring graffiti art and creative transportation methods. This neighborhood has become a beacon of light for the historic city of Medellín as a result.
Naturally, one of the first things we did in Medellín was to take a tour of Comuna 13 and downtown. Our visit to Comuna 13 was the most intriguing part of the tour and is a must-do if you are visiting Medellín.
Comuna 13 has a devastating past filled with gang violence but has come an incredibly long way to become a safe area that attracts many tourists.
This entire area is still incredibly poverty-stricken, but the striking graffiti art covering the walls and the innovative transportation methods have played a key role in providing the local people of this area with an opportunity to grow.
I’m not usually one to care about transportation methods in a city (other than to get from one place to the next), but it is fascinating how they have used transportation to revitalize this part of the city in such a dramatic way.
One of the unique transportation methods here is a cable car system similar to the gondolas you would see in ski resorts. These provide the villagers who live in the mountains with the ability to navigate down the mountainside and into civilization.
In my opinion, the outdoor escalators that were introduced to the area are even more innovative. The escalators make it possible for the villagers in the most remote locations on the mountainside to access different areas of the mountain.
And the bright, colorful design is an art installation in and of itself that has helped to bring more visitors and attention to this impoverished area.
Now, individuals who historically could not communicate with most of society can reach other villagers on the mountainside and the cable cars to the city. Of course, this is the only reason we were able to visit the villages located along the mountainside as well.
From El Centro to Laureles
As I mentioned, the other part of our tour was of downtown Medellín, or El Centro. Downtown offered a contrasting view of Medellín in comparison to Comuna 13.
As soon as we stepped off of the metro, we were immersed in the bustling crowd that goes along with city life. There were not many tourists here. It was mostly locals living their everyday lives.
We walked across downtown and made our way to Plaza Botero, learning more about the city and the area along the way. The plaza is certainly more “touristy” but it is worth a quick stop to see the bronze statues by Fernando Botero.
Botero, who was originally from Medellín, is a well-known and beloved artist in Colombia. He had a very unique, and somewhat comical, style. You can see for yourself below.
As necessary as it is to understand the history and evolution of a place you are visiting, it is also important to experience the parts of the city frequented by locals and to try to understand the modern culture of the area.
The neighborhood we stayed in (Laureles) was the perfect way for us to experience local life. Laureles is not a tourist area by any measure. It is nearby many places to eat and go out while still having a very local feel.
And as a bonus, our apartment was a short walk to Carrerra 70, a popular local street that is lined with bars and restaurants. While Carrera 70 is filled with fun shops, tasty street food, and a charming vibe (like the bright, colorful umbrellas above the walkway shown below), you will also encounter beggars and signs like the below.
We spent a few afternoons and evenings enjoying Carrera 70. I fell in love with this part of the city and certainly indulged in the good times while we were there.
We enjoyed tons of local foods, interacted with locals, and, of course, drank the local beverage—aguardiente. Still, it was difficult to fully enjoy all of that good food, drinks, and music after experiencing the stark contrast of some people’s lives in other parts of the city.
To continue to follow our world trip adventure and read about our experience paragliding for the first time in Medellín, click here.
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